Wie vergänglich ist Schönheit?

 

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Zusammenfassung

Die Hautalterung ist ein komplexer biologischer Vorgang, der zu 30 % durch endogene, zu 70 % durch exogene Faktoren beeinflusst wird. Während die endogene Hautalterung genetisch determiniert ist, erfolgt die exogene Alterung umweltbedingt vor allem durch Sonne, Rauchen oder falsche Ernährung und kann verhindert werden. Strategien gegen die Hautalterung fokussieren auf Antioxidanzien, Ernährung und hormonelle Faktoren. Vitamine, Carotinoide, Vitamin E, Flavonoide oder Pflanzenextrakte werden entweder als topische Präparate oder Nahrungsergänzungsmittel angeboten; ihre Wirkung beruht teilweise auf vorübergehender Hautglättung durch Akkumulation von Wasser und Strukturmolekülen in der oberen Schicht der Unterhaut und teilweise auf Lichtschutzeffekten. Die Haut ist zudem ein geeignetes Modell für die allgemeine Alternsforschung. Untersuchungen zeigen, dass die Hautdicke und Knochendichte menopausaler Frauen eng korrelieren. In-vitro-Experimente mit humanen Talgdrüsenzellen demonstrierten modifizierte Signalkaskaden im Rahmen der hormoninduzierten Alterung. Sie betreffen die Expression von Steroidhormonen und Zytokinen sowie die Beteiligung von Genen, die bei der Entzündung und der Pathogenese neurodegenerativer Krankheiten eine Rolle spielen.

Abstract

Skin ageing is a complex biological process that is influenced by endogenous factors (30 %) and exogenous factors (70 %). Endogenous skin ageing is genetically determined, whereas exogenous skin ageing is mainly environmentally triggered – by exposure to sunlight, smoking, or a poor diet – and can be prevented. Strategies against ageing skin focus on antioxidants, nutrition, and hormonal factors. Vitamins, carotenoids, vitamin E, flavonoids, or plant extracts are offered in the form of either topical preparations or food supplements. Their effect is in some cases due to temporary skin smoothing as a result of the accumulation of water and structural molecules in the upper layer of the dermis, and in other cases it is due to the effects of protection against sunlight. Furthermore, the skin is a suitable model for general research into ageing. Studies have shown that the skin thickness and bone density of menopausal women are strongly correlated. In-vitro experiments with human sebaceous glands have shown modified signalling cascades in the context of hormone-induced ageing. These relate to the expression of steroid hormones and cytokines, as well as the involvement of genes that have a role in the inflammation and pathogenesis of neurogenerative disorders.

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